The work of this London bartender is the most delicious combination of art and science. In his new book, he revealed some secrets.

Written by Paul Adams | Published 11:58 PM, November 14, 2012

At 69 Colebrooke Row, his bar in London, Tony Conigliaro serves low-key, delicately balanced cocktails that taste effortlessly. You can hardly see them reaching your taste buds after going through a rotary evaporator, centrifuge, etc. His new book "Drinks" (Drinks) provides an elegant insight into how some of his greatest effects are achieved.

As with many other modern recipes, there is a long list of equipment behind, and not every reader will be equipped or inclined to follow Conigliaro's in-depth laboratory recipes that require vacuum distillation. However, like many other documents of this type, this is at least an aesthetic document and a practical manual. Personally, I have a centrifuge and a Buchner funnel. Even so, I think this book is more like a beautifully designed and glossy tome than a step-by-step guide.

This is an example recipe in the book, where Mr. Conigliaro seasons the egg whites with hay and then shakes them into a cocktail.

Creating a cocktail that can be enjoyed in a specific season is the real driving force behind many of my recipes. If Spitfire is the summer version of New York Sour, so will Somerset Sour in the fall. For me, autumn is the epitome of the flavors and aromas associated with Halloween: the smell of hay, toffee and apples. I want to encapsulate these in a drink, and use this to carefully plan a common autumn nostalgia for every drinker.

Cider brandy is distilled in the fall. Although it is an ingredient that I have never used before, I chose it as the base of this cocktail because it really captures the taste of apples at this time of the year . The layering of ingredients is as important as this Sour and Spitfire. The addition of cognac makes the cider brandy dry while introducing a toffee-like rich element; the cider floats ensure a refreshing taste. I found that the food-grade essence cis-3-Hexnal has a perfect "freshly cut grass" taste. When added to fresh apples, it tastes and smells like hay.

In the process of making this drink, I have always realized that apple slices will be a supplementary decoration. However, while experimenting with how to prevent apples from browning, it occurred to me that if the apple spoons I was testing were floating in the sour foam, they would look like shaking apples. I started using a melon digger to scoop all kinds of apples until I found an apple with the best absorption quality-Lady Pink. If cis-3-hexenal is added together with pectin and sorbic acid, it can prevent apples from browning. The resulting apples are very juicy, but the pectin and acid are also very crisp, with a slight hay aroma. The mini apples float in the sour foam, creating a decoration that not only resembles the taste of the drink, but also enhances them through a multi-dimensional and multi-sensory flavor experience. This really expands the idea of ​​what decorations can be.

Aroma is the driving factor behind this beverage. Audrey Sanders and I often regret the unfortunate wet dog nose smell produced by the reaction of egg whites with alcohol. We had a lot of conversations about how to eliminate it permanently. When making truffle omelettes at home, I had a moment of trance. I realized that truffles flavor the eggs through the smell. It's simple because eggs are porous and they can absorb odors. In this case, I can use any number of odors to flavor them. All that is needed is to create a controlled environment to season the eggs with aromas.

I tested it by soaking different food-grade hydrosols in lint and sealing them in Tupperware with eggs, and put the boxes in the refrigerator. Then the aroma in the box fills all the space, including penetration into the semi-permeable egg shell, which means it will absorb the small molecules around it and add flavor to the egg itself. Armed with this knowledge, I added the same hay essence to the egg white as infused into the apple.

1. Mix all ingredients except cider and apples in the cocktail jar.

2. Shake dry, then shake well on ice cubes. Strain and place in a large refrigerated cup, floating the cider on it.

3. Decorate with apples soaked in hay.

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